Batteries are an irrevocable part of vaping life. Whether it's a little cig-a-like or a massive monster mechanical mod, they all rely on a battery (or batteries) to give you those sweet clouds of craving-killer goodness.

When you start vaping you start with devices that have built-in batteries, such as the aforementioned cig-a-likes or an Ego twist. But sooner or later, you will begin to experiment with mods.

Whether a stick or box mod, these devices generally involve advanced battery technology, and by extension, owning one pays to have advanced battery knowledge. You don't need to go get a degree in electro-chemical engineering or anything, but you do need to know the basics.

So bear with me here - I'm going to assume zero knowledge of batteries, and work my way up to advanced aspects that every vaper should know, whether you plan on getting the Snow Wolf or not.

What is a battery?

A battery is a self-contained cell that stores electricity for the purpose of powering electrical devices. I'm pretty sure you know the rest.

How do batteries work?

When you boil it down, all batteries work via chemical reactions.

All batteries have an anode (or negative pole), cathode (or positive pole) and an electrolyte (no, not Gatorade, a fluid or other chemical medium to act as a barrier between the anode and cathode).

The anode and cathode are made up of two different types of chemical compounds. Due to the chemical reactions within the cells, electrons build up at the anode causing a voltage difference (you may remember how voltage works from our earlier blog post about vaping and electricity).

Now electrons are fussy little beasts - they don't like being all bunched up, and would much rather spread themselves out evenly; therefore, all they want to do is go back to the cathode. But they can't, because the electrolyte is in the way. So they sit at the anode, elbowing each other for room and generally being rather keen to get moving.

When you close the circuit between the anode and cathode with a wire or other kind of conductive material, the electrons are free to go back to the cathode and finally get some personal space. As they flow along the material connecting the anode and cathode - voila - you get an electrical current.

This is how all electrically powered devices work. They draw current from one end, pass it through anything that needs electricity, then whatever is left over goes back into the battery.

Then why do batteries run out?

Remember that all batteries work via chemical reactions. As the electrons flow, it causes chemical reactions in the anode and cathode mediums that eventually cause them to stop producing electrons. This is why the voltage of a battery drops as you use it - the potential to produce a current drops as the chemical reactions progress.

So how do rechargeable batteries work?

All you are doing in a rechargeable battery is reversing the flow of electrons, sending them back to the anode like trillions of microscopic four-year-olds being sent back to their rooms. The chemical reactions reverse, and the process is ready to start again.

So, those are the basics of batteries. Now on to some more interesting stuff...

Chemical makeup

Different kinds of batteries will have different chemical mediums by which they produce electrons.

Your typical car battery is a lead-acid battery. Whilst they have a low energy density (that is, capacity to store electrons), they are capable of producing massive bursts of high current - perfect for quick zaps to power your starter motor. They consist of two lead plates and sulfuric acid dissolved in the electrolyte, which is typically water.

The average battery you buy from Bunnings to power your wall clock is an alkaline battery. They actually contain manganese dioxide and powdered zinc; they get their name from the alkaline electrolyte. These are your perfect batteries for prolonged, low-current usage. For longer lasting power you can pick up a nickel cadmium battery, which were the first kind of alkaline battery.

If you owned a mobile phone in the 90s you would be familiar with the nickel-hydrogen and nickel-metal-hydride batteries. These are more energy-dense and last longer than alkaline batteries and therefore can be made to be much smaller.

Lithium-ion batteries

Now we're back in the present day in the world of the lithium-ion battery.

Lithium is the third element on the periodic table. It's a very small atom; likewise the least dense of all the metals with the highest electrochemical potential and energy-to-weight ratio, making it perfect for batteries. However it's also very unstable, which is why, although lithium batteries were invented back in 1912, they were not used until the development of the lithium-ion battery in the mid 80s.

Things you need to know about LiON batteries

1. They are a slightly different animal to normal batteries. Lithium ions actually pass through the electrolyte to either the anode or cathode, depending on whether the battery is charging or discharging. The anode, cathode and electrolyte are actually sheets, not solid terminals in a liquid solution, so lithium-ion cells consist of the anode, cathode and electrolyte sheet wound around each other in a spiral.
2. Lithium is highly reactive. The last thing you want to do is get lithium wet. Remember back to high school chemistry, when the teacher put sodium in water? Think that, but like ten times more powerful. Which is partially why...
3. Lithium cells are contained under pressure. This is to keep any air or water reacting with the lithium. Therefore it is never a good idea to throw a lithium battery onto concrete as hard as you can. I mean it. Never.

So your lithium-ion battery is literally a metal canister jam-packed with a highly explosive chemical that is not unknown to occasionally catch fire! Kind of makes you think twice about having your next vape.

Fortunately for us, good LiON batteries have inbuilt safety features, which are:

1. A voltage sensor. If the sensor detects that too much current is being drawn, it will restrict the flow of electrons.
2. A temperature sensor. If the sensor detects that the cell is getting too hot, it will isolate the overheated part to prevent a runaway thermal reaction.

Note that I said a "good" LiON battery will have these...

Why you should be fussy about your batteries

A LiON battery will fail if you over-charge or over-discharge it.

You will over-charge it if you leave it in a charger that does not have a full charge cut off feature. Keep pumping those electrons into the battery when it's already full and the battery will let you know about it. If you're lucky it will just be ruined. If you're unlucky...

You will over-discharge it if you try to draw too much current through it. Drag 30 amps out of a 20amp-rated battery and you will degrade the electrolyte, causing the cell to overheat, and - again, if you're lucky, only ruin the battery. This is why a sound understanding of battery technology is non-negotiable for mechanical mod users - even with the battery's built-in safety features, the lack thereof in the mechanical mod can still mean you push them too hard and get yourself in trouble.

So...

What to make sure when buying high-current lithium ion batteries for your mod

1. Check the ampere rating. Back in the old days this would be represented as the "C" rating, however in these more enlightened times they just write it on the side of the battery. In order to determine if the particular batteries are right for what you are going to put them through, you need to understand Ohm's law and how to calculate the amps your setup will draw. Again, because we're such legends here at Vapoureyes, we have a blog post about this.
2. DON'T BUY REWRAPS! A rewrap is a battery that is not in its original skin, meaning that you can't trust the amp rating written on it. Past experience has told us that some unscrupulous characters have re-wrapped batteries with skins over-stating their amp rating, which means they can charge original price for a cheap knock-off, and you might have to suffer the consequences.
3. Make sure they are protected. Make sure they have the built-in safety features mentioned above. It's as simple as making sure your vendor tells you whether they are "protected" or "unprotected". If you're highly experienced and full of expert battery knowledge (or an electro-chemical engineer), you might be able to get away with using an unprotected battery if you're very very careful with your resistances. For the rest of us - buy protected.
4. Buy a decent charger. Make sure the charger you get has the full charge cut-off feature, meaning it will cut off the current as soon as it senses the batteries are fully charged.

A few other pro-tips:

• Learn Ohm's law.
• If you're using a mechanical mod, buy an ohms meter whatever you do.
• Don't leave them charging unattended - especially not overnight. You don't want to wake up with half your face blown off. You'll probably frighten yourself when you look in the mirror.
• Don't discharge them all the way. If a LiON battery gets fully discharged, it is ruined. Charge them up as soon as they dip below 20% or so.
• If you're using multiple batteries, get smart about whether to use them in series or in parallel.
• Don't drop them in water.
• Don't freeze them.
• Don't leave them in the sun.
• Don't throw them at people. It's not nice.

There's absolutely no reason to be scared of batteries. If you treat them right you will have no problems at all. But before you venture into the world of high-powered or mechanical mods, make sure you know enough to keep yourself and your loved ones safe. Batteries don't take abuse lying down!

For more information on battery and battery safety, please check out these awesome websites:

http://www.mpoweruk.com/safety.htm

http://www.livescience.com/50657-how-batteries-work.html

http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/everyday-tech/lithium-ion-battery.htm

We've discussed in previous blog posts about electricity and vaping, resistance and power, watts and ohms. We've talked about why people originally bought mechanical mods and about what sub-ohming is. All of which is useful information for those of us who are interested in cloud-chasing, getting massive throat hits or lowering our nicotine levels.

But what about you? You've only just started vaping, or you're perfectly happy with your current setup, but everyone seems to be going on about the latest high-powered devices and why they're the best thing since sliced bread. Maybe you feel a bit pressured to "get with the times" and buy one of those box things you keep seeing everywhere.

The first thing to ask is:

Do I actually need a high-wattage mod?

You definitely need a high-powered mod if:

• you intend to sub-ohm and have bought a sub-ohm clearomizer like the Atlantis or the Sub Tank
• you are moving into the world of rebuildables
• you want to blow massive clouds

Ego-style devices and cig-a-likes do not have the capability to fire sub-ohm coils, and you run the risk of damaging them if you try. If you are intending to start building your own coils with an RDA or RTA, you will need a high-powered regulated mod, because chances are your first few builds may be skirting just under the 1ohm mark. And if you want clouds, you'll need power, and lots of it. Just buying a high VG juice won't do the whole trick.

But let's say you just want one. I get it. They look nice with their metal cases and their bright little blue OLED screens. Maybe you don't care about sub-ohming or rebuilding or cloud chasing. Maybe you just like electronic gadgets, or fancy the idea of having a battery level readout.

I'm totally with you, so the next question to ask is:

How do I know how much wattage I really need?

The answer is in two parts.

Clearomizers

You need enough power to fire your clearo safely and efficiently, so the power level will be dictated by your choice of coil resistance.

If you have a mod with too much power running at low settings constantly, it's bad for the circuitry as it is constantly under load choking the voltage. If you have a mod with too little power maxed out constantly, your battery life will fall through the floor. You need to find a power level that has a "sweet spot", firing your coil at around 65-70% of its full capacity.

OMG, I hear you groan, that sounds way too hard! Well... yes and no. Really, how much wattage you like to pump through your coil depends on how hot or cool you like your vapour, what kinds of juice you vape and your particular choice of atty - in other words, most vapers experiment with different power levels until they find the level they like and stick with it. There really is no "correct" and "incorrect", just "ideal" and "less ideal".

BUT - if you need some guidance, here is a handy little table I just invented then with some recommended wattage levels for popular brands of clearomizer. You're welcome!

Rebuildables

This one is a bit easier.

Basically - get a regulated mod with as much power as you can afford.

Why? Firstly, if you're rebuilding, chances are you also want to push the envelope resistance-wise. Secondly, until you hit your stride with your rebuilding technique, you're going to get all sorts of crazy resistances, so you will need a regulated mod that you can adjust the power levels for. Thirdly, just because you don't want to sub-ohm now, doesn't mean you won't want to in the future - maybe you get an Aspire Atlantis for your birthday, or change your mind and switch to rebuildables. Whatever the case, it makes sense to give yourself plenty of headroom in the power department.

You don't even have to ask, I can just tell that you want to know:

Which high wattage mod is the best?

Aha! Now we're in murky waters that this blog will not muddy its boots in. Obviously, because Vapoureyes stocks a number of different brands of high wattage mods, it would be unconscionable to recommend one over the other as being "better". Plus, it's not as simple as which one is "better" than which.

From the simple mini-mods sporting a modest 10 or 20 watt capacity, to the all-out monster machines cranking out 150, 200 or even 250 watts, all have different features and benefits. Some use the DNA series of chipboards, others the YihiSX kind, still others a manufacturer-exclusive one. Some have temperature sensing capabilities of varying reliability, some have puff counters, some can tell you what day it is, some can show you a photograph - the list goes on.

What we can do is give you a few pro tips to help you find the one that you think is the best:

1. Know what you want.

Do you want to sub-ohm and need an in-built resistance meter? Are you going to be using nickel coils and need temperature sensing? Are you trying to wean yourself off nicotine and need a puff counter to stick to your plan? Decide up-front what you need in a mod, then look for one that has it.

2. Read customer reviews.

Regular vaping customers are not backwards in coming forwards - if they think a mod is rubbish, they will say so in the comments. Likewise if it's the bees' knees. YouTube reviews are OK but a lot of those are skewed because the reviewer got the merchandise for free. Read the reviews on several vendor sites (before coming back home to Vapoureyes of course!) to see what people like you have to say.

3. Search the forums.

Again we won't promote any particular group or forum, but there are plenty to be found with little effort. Search for the mod you have your eye on, and again, see what real users have to say. At first you may get wildly conflicting reports, but if you keep digging you will eventually see where the majority lie.

4. If all else fails, ask your vendor.

Just can't make up your mind? Just not sure if a mod exists with the features you need? Shoot an email to your vendor. If you've picked a good one (coughVapoureyescough) they will be more than happy to assist you in your purchase, and you can rely on the advice they give you.

To sum it all up, here is my personal take on it all:

If you want one, there's absolutely no harm in getting one.

It's way better to err on the side of more power than less.

It's also way better to get a regulated mod first and experiment with mechanical mods later.

Have fun shopping folks!

Most vapers start on cig-a-likes or Ego-style e-cigs like this:

After a while though, you may be after more from your device. Maybe it's just not as satisfying as you think it should be, or maybe you were just intrigued by all the massive clouds you see on your Facebook wall. However you come across them, you eventually discover rebuildable atomizers and wonder if you should take the leap.

What is a rebuildable atomizer?

A rebuildable atomizer is simply an atomizer that requires the coils and wick to be made by hand instead of using replacement coil assemblies. They are favoured by many because of their increased flavour and vapour production. 

There are two main kinds of rebuildable atomizer:

1. Rebuildable tank atomizers (RTAs)

2. Rebuildable dripping atomizers (RDAs)

For the purposes of this blog post I will discuss the most common types of RTA and RDA and not go into some of the more esoteric designs.

Rebuildable tank atomizers (RTAs)

RTAs generally consist of a rebuilding deck with two posts and juice channels, a "chimney" section for the atomized vapour, surrounded by a tank section to hold the e-liquid.

Most RTAs on the market today are the Kayfun-style design. When you fill the tank section, you suck on the atomizer without firing to create air pressure inside the tank. Then when you fire your coil and draw on the atomizer, the change in air pressure inside the chimney section draws e-liquid up the juice channels onto the wick.

The main advantage of an RTA is the ability to hold a large amount of juice without having to drip directly onto the wick every couple of puffs. The disadvantages are in airflow - many of them are a tight draw, and if they are not wicked correctly flooding and gurgling can happen.

Rebuildable dripping atomizers (RDAs)

RDAs also consist of a rebuilding deck with posts, but instead of juice channels and a chimney section, RDAs may have a small juice well to hold small amounts of liquid, or a flat deck with no juice reservoir. The wicks go through the coil and rest on the base of the juice well or flat deck, and the air is drawn either through holes in the sides of the cap or in the deck underneath the coils for bottom-flow juice well designs.

RDAs also vary in the number of posts. Some have a simple two-post setup, others have three posts, with a centre post or block and two posts on either side. Some have four or more posts, but we won't go into those here.

RDAs by far produce the best flavour and vapour, however the requirement to drip liquid onto the wick at regular intervals puts some people off.

What are the benefits of switching to a rebuildable atomizer?

Sub-ohming and custom resistance

Of course these days we have beasts like the Aspire Atlantis or the Kanger Subtank, but before they came onto the scene, going rebuildable was the only way to sub-ohm. Even now with these sub-ohm clearomizer options, going rebuildable gives you a lot more flexibility in choosing your own coil resistance. If 0.5 is not hot enough for you but 0.2 is still a bit too much, you can build yourself a nice halfway 0.35ohm coil and vape in your sweet spot.

Flavour

Rebuildables are undoubtedly the kings of flavour. Being able to choose your own wicking material, adjust your airflow and customise your resistance gives you endless possibilities in searching for the ever-imminent perfect vape. As mentioned above, RDAs have the upper hand in the flavour department, but any rebuildable will give you a better flavour than your little Ego silica wick clearomizers.

Vapour

If you're an aspiring cloud chaser, rebuildables are the way to go. Again RDAs have the unfair advantage because of the smaller distance the vapour has to travel from coil to tip, but any rebuildable option will be better than Egos for the old cumulonimbi production.

Price

Buying replacement coils regularly can have an impact on your wallet, albeit not the same as buying five packets of cancer sticks a week. But rebuilding supplies give you a lot more mileage, and are cheap. One spool of resistance wire and one packet of organic cotton sheets can last you for months on end and cost less than $10!

What will I need before switching to rebuildables?

The right tools

Once you've added your new RTA or RDA to your shopping cart, the next items you need to add are:

1. Resistance wire. If you're new to the game, choose 28 gauge Kanthal. Nickel wire should only be used by experienced rebuilders with strong knowledge of Ohm's law. You can use other gauges of Kanthal once you've gotten coil building down pat.

2. Wicking material. You are spoiled for choice here, but the most common choice is cotton, be it in sheets or balls. Silica wicks are also available and can be used if you're not confident working with cotton.

3. Small pair of pliers or tinsnips. You will need these to cut your lengths of resistance wire and trim the legs of your coils, so they need to be small. You can also use nail clippers if you so desire.

4. Tweezers. These are used for squeezing your coils, and should be ceramic-tipped if possible. For more information on this please see our blog post on building your first coil.

5. Scissors. These are used for cutting and trimming your lengths of wicking material.

6. Ohms meter/resistance tester. This is a small outboard unit used to check the resistance of your coils prior to installing onto your mod. If you are using a regulated mod it is optional but still recommended.

7. Coil jig. This is used for wrapping your coils, although you can use a drill bit, small screwdriver or large gauge syringe needle if necessary.

Your new rebuildable should include a small screwdriver or Allen key for the posts, and if you're lucky some spare screws and o-rings.

The right knowledge

You will need to learn a few new skills:

1. Coil building. As mentioned above we have a blog post about this, but you can learn off YouTube or a generous vaping friend or relative.

2. Wicking. If using cotton, you will need to learn how to create wicks of the right thickness. Again we have a blog post about this. (How good are we?)

3. Ohm's law and handling electricity. It will now be up to you to determine the right power levels for the right resistance. A regulated mod makes this easier, but it is vital that you understand the principals to ensure you don't blow up your mod and for your own personal safety. And yes, you guessed it, we have a blog post about this.

Are rebuildables right for me?

As with everything in the vaping world, whether or not you use a rebuildable is entirely a matter of personal preference.

You should seriously consider switching to rebuildables if:

• Your current setup isn't satisfying you
• The only way to ward off your cravings is through chain-vaping
• You want better flavour
• You want to blow massive clouds
• You are tired of fighting peer-pressure from your more experienced vaping friends and want to feel the sweet relief of giving in

Rebuildables may not be right for you if:

• Your cig-a-like or Ego is all you need to quit smoking
• You're not good at doing small fiddly things with your hands
• You prefer the convenience of tanks and pre-made coil assemblies
• You have no desire to sub-ohm or cloud chase
• You're not interested in larger sized setups or being teased by your co-workers about sucking on something that looks like a dictaphone

To sum it all up though, I think I speak on behalf of all rebuilders when I say:

Give it a go!

I have never once regretted the switch. Rebuilding my own atomizers is a much-loved hobby and I have learned a lot from doing it. Plus (nerd alert) it makes me feel more "connected" and "invested" in my vaping journey. Plus, now I'm hooked on RDAs, nothing else quite stacks up.

If you're toying with the idea but are still not 100% convinced, I highly recommend buying a simple two-post RDA (and a regulated mod if you don't already have one) and giving it a go. You may just find the vaping experience you've been looking for!

If you’ve been vaping for a while, you may have heard the term “dry burning” being thrown around here and there. You may be wondering what dry burning is and whether or not you need to do it.

Dry burning is basically firing your atomizer coil with no wick or liquid in order to burn off any residue that may have accumulated through use, thereby cleaning the coil and improving the flavour of the vape.

What you need to know about dry burning

Dry burning is for rebuildables

If you use pre-made coil assemblies, dry burning is generally not recommended (although there may be a few exceptions to this). The idea behind pre-made coil assemblies is ease of use, convenience and disposability. Once the coil has gunked up, you throw it out and insert a new one. You can dry burn a pre-made coil but you probably won’t like the results!

Dry burning is no substitute for a fresh coil

At best, dry burning may give you a day or two of extra use, unless you get into the habit of doing it every day, in which case it does significantly increase its lifespan. If you're like me and prefer the "set and forget" method of using your coils, the metal of the coil itself will eventually degrade with use. Therefore dry burning won't give you much benefit when your coil is getting long in the tooth.

Dry burning can be dangerous

There is the real risk of spitting hot fluid and even fire when dry burning, therefore you should follow all precautions and do it sensibly and responsibly.

How to dry burn your coils

Clear your space

As said previously, dry burning may involve combustion products. Therefore make sure you’re in a ventilated space away from any easily combustible materials. Yes of course you’re a tough guy (or gal), but make sure you don’t breathe the vapour in and be careful you don’t burn your hands or fingers. 

Remove your wick

Unless you’re using silica wick or SS mesh, the first thing you need to do is remove the old wick and throw it out. Even with silica, I would still recommend removing it. Dry burning with a cotton or rayon wick still inserted will burn it and can cause damage to your deck.

Check for residue prior to burning

Make sure you have no hanger-onners still attached, otherwise these will burn to the coil and be very difficult to remove, kind of rendering the whole exercise pointless.

Fire your mod

Just like when burning in a new coil, press the fire button and hold it down until there is no vapour coming off the coil and the coil glows red hot. Remember, when you start this, a lot of crap will come spitting off, so be careful!

Check again for any stubborn residue

Make sure there are no sneaky bits of gunk or fluff hanging on for dear life (as you may notice in the above photo). If you can’t see any but want to make absolutely certain, you can rinse the coil or even soak it in isopropyl alcohol overnight, but then again why not just build a new one? Each to their own.

Fire your mod (again)

Once you’re sure the coil is residue free, fire again to ensure the coil heats up from the inner wraps outwards and that there is no flame, smoke or vapour. 

And there you go – you’ve just dry-burned and cleaned your coil and are ready to re-wick!

Remember – don’t dry-burn your little Ego atty, best results are achieved if done daily, and make sure you take due care when dry-burning. Have fun!

If you haven't read our last blog post on all things vaping and electricity, please do so first before reading this post, as it contains information vital to understanding this one (I was tempted to call it "voltage and wattage and amps - ohm my!" - but I'm glad I didn't).

As we discussed in this blog post, mech mods used to be the only way to draw high power for sub-ohm coils, but these days we have high-powered regulated mods to do that job, and most mech mod owners stick to them for aesthetic or sentimental reasons.

Mech mods are still highly popular, and still better than regulated mods for durability. However, because they are not regulated and don't have all that fancy circuitry, they are not as safe, and require a degree of knowledge to prevent battery or peripheral limb destruction.

With this in mind, let's take a look at some of the most important things you need to know about using a mech mod safely, so that your batteries - and peripheral limbs - keep functioning as long as the maker intended.

Batteries - it's all about the batteries

Ah, the good old electrochemical battery - first invented by Alessandro Volta in the year 1800, with only modest improvements in functionality since then. Yes, the chemicals have changed, they've gotten smaller, and slightly safer, but they really haven't changed all that much in the past two centuries.

Let's not go into all the ins and outs of it - if you're really curious about how batteries work there is ample information on the Internet. For our purposes, we know that batteries store electricity, our mods need electricity, therefore we need batteries to power our mods.

What you do need to know is which battery is the right battery to put in your mod.

Choosing the right battery

Mechanical mods don't have the circuitry that senses the resistance of the coil, adjusts the wattage and voltage, prevents short circuits or overheating. A mechanical mod simply has a switch that connects your battery directly to your atomizer. If your resistance is too low, or your battery not powerful enough, all sorts of nasty stuff can happen, both to your battery and to your peripheral limbs.

I'm going to go out on a limb (no pun intended!) and say the only batteries you should ever use are IMR Lithium Ion batteries. The chemistry of IMR batteries is a lot more stable, meaning they can handle a lot more stress, deal with a lot more heat and are less likely to become volatile.

The only question you need to answer then is: what size, and what capacity? 18350? 18650? 26650? 1600mAh? 2000mAh? 2500mAh?

In terms of size, this will simply come down to what your mod is designed to accommodate. 18650 is by far the most common, fitting in 22mm-type devices such as the Nemesis or in box mods such as this one. 26650 are wider and are usually seen in really thick stick mods like the Hades.

Capacity is where it gets a little more complicated. Just because a battery has a higher capacity in mAh, doesn't mean you'll get more current out of it!

Back before battery manufacturers clearly told us, it was important to calculate the maximum continuous discharge based on the battery's C-rating using a fairly complicated formula. In these more enlightened times, however, it's a simple case of reading the battery specs to see what the max discharge in amps is.

In short, you need a battery that is capable of pushing the amps you need for the resistance of your atomizer.

Maximum Continuous Discharge Current

You will generally pick your mod and battery setup based on the target resistance you are aiming for.

Remember that the lower the resistance of your coil, the more power you will need to draw from your battery, therefore you will be looking for the one with the highest max continuous discharge in amps.

Ohm's Law

Here is where you will need to use Ohm's law in determining how much current your desired setup is going to draw, and in choosing the right battery for the job.

The formula you will need to use is A=V/Ω.

Your typical 18650 battery when fully charged will draw 4.2V, dropping to around the 4.0V mark for the majority of its cycle.

Let's say you want to build a 0.5Ω coil.

4.2/0.5 = 8.4 amps when fully charged.

4.0/0.5 = 8 amps for the majority of its cycle.

Therefore you will need a battery that is capable of easily producing at least a continuous 8.4 amps before you can use your 0.5Ω coil.

Most good high drain IMR 18650s will pump around the 20amp mark, so you will be perfectly safe with one of those. But if dealing with your stealthy little 18350s, you will be paying close attention to the rated max continuous discharge before going ahead. You will always want to leave yourself substantial headroom - constantly pushing a battery to its maximum rated discharge current is not good for battery life or peripheral limb safety.

Building coils for your setup

Most of the time, you will purchase your mod and batteries first, then set about building coils to suit your equipment, having made sure you purchased a mod and batteries that can handle what you are aiming for. In this case, you definitely need the following equipment:

• Ohms tester - you need to make sure your coil is in the right resistance range before testing it on your battery.
• Multimeter - you need to make sure your battery's voltage is reading correctly and there are no shorts.

Other random safety tips

• Buy a battery charger with a full charge cutoff so you don't overcharge your batteries.
• Do not completely drain your batteries - as soon as they drop to 3.6V, recharge them.
• Do not short circuit your battery! It leads to nothing good, either for battery life or peripheral limbs.
• Do not invert your batteries! Refer above point for why not.
• Do not stack your batteries unless your mod supports stacking. Box mods that can take two or more batteries are wired to cope with it.
• Make sure your mod has adequate ventilation holes. If it doesn't - make some with a drill.
• Make sure your mod has a fire button lock feature. Unintentional and continuous firing is bad as per points 3 and 4 above.
• For extra safety, you can install a kick to control the watts or for short-circuit cutoff.

Hopefully I have armed you with enough information to save your batteries and peripheral limbs, and to ensure your mech mod days are filled with cloudy bliss! Keep reading below for some more useful info if you are planning on really pushing your mod to its limits.

Massively sub-ohm

In these days of nickel resistance wire, clapton coils and multi-coil atomizers, you may find the below table fairly useful.

You can find the excel sheet and input your own data here.