Most vapers start on cig-a-likes or Ego-style e-cigs like this:

After a while though, you may be after more from your device. Maybe it's just not as satisfying as you think it should be, or maybe you were just intrigued by all the massive clouds you see on your Facebook wall. However you come across them, you eventually discover rebuildable atomizers and wonder if you should take the leap.

What is a rebuildable atomizer?

A rebuildable atomizer is simply an atomizer that requires the coils and wick to be made by hand instead of using replacement coil assemblies. They are favoured by many because of their increased flavour and vapour production. 

There are two main kinds of rebuildable atomizer:

1. Rebuildable tank atomizers (RTAs)

2. Rebuildable dripping atomizers (RDAs)

For the purposes of this blog post I will discuss the most common types of RTA and RDA and not go into some of the more esoteric designs.

Rebuildable tank atomizers (RTAs)

RTAs generally consist of a rebuilding deck with two posts and juice channels, a "chimney" section for the atomized vapour, surrounded by a tank section to hold the e-liquid.

Most RTAs on the market today are the Kayfun-style design. When you fill the tank section, you suck on the atomizer without firing to create air pressure inside the tank. Then when you fire your coil and draw on the atomizer, the change in air pressure inside the chimney section draws e-liquid up the juice channels onto the wick.

The main advantage of an RTA is the ability to hold a large amount of juice without having to drip directly onto the wick every couple of puffs. The disadvantages are in airflow - many of them are a tight draw, and if they are not wicked correctly flooding and gurgling can happen.

Rebuildable dripping atomizers (RDAs)

RDAs also consist of a rebuilding deck with posts, but instead of juice channels and a chimney section, RDAs may have a small juice well to hold small amounts of liquid, or a flat deck with no juice reservoir. The wicks go through the coil and rest on the base of the juice well or flat deck, and the air is drawn either through holes in the sides of the cap or in the deck underneath the coils for bottom-flow juice well designs.

RDAs also vary in the number of posts. Some have a simple two-post setup, others have three posts, with a centre post or block and two posts on either side. Some have four or more posts, but we won't go into those here.

RDAs by far produce the best flavour and vapour, however the requirement to drip liquid onto the wick at regular intervals puts some people off.

What are the benefits of switching to a rebuildable atomizer?

Sub-ohming and custom resistance

Of course these days we have beasts like the Aspire Atlantis or the Kanger Subtank, but before they came onto the scene, going rebuildable was the only way to sub-ohm. Even now with these sub-ohm clearomizer options, going rebuildable gives you a lot more flexibility in choosing your own coil resistance. If 0.5 is not hot enough for you but 0.2 is still a bit too much, you can build yourself a nice halfway 0.35ohm coil and vape in your sweet spot.

Flavour

Rebuildables are undoubtedly the kings of flavour. Being able to choose your own wicking material, adjust your airflow and customise your resistance gives you endless possibilities in searching for the ever-imminent perfect vape. As mentioned above, RDAs have the upper hand in the flavour department, but any rebuildable will give you a better flavour than your little Ego silica wick clearomizers.

Vapour

If you're an aspiring cloud chaser, rebuildables are the way to go. Again RDAs have the unfair advantage because of the smaller distance the vapour has to travel from coil to tip, but any rebuildable option will be better than Egos for the old cumulonimbi production.

Price

Buying replacement coils regularly can have an impact on your wallet, albeit not the same as buying five packets of cancer sticks a week. But rebuilding supplies give you a lot more mileage, and are cheap. One spool of resistance wire and one packet of organic cotton sheets can last you for months on end and cost less than $10!

What will I need before switching to rebuildables?

The right tools

Once you've added your new RTA or RDA to your shopping cart, the next items you need to add are:

1. Resistance wire. If you're new to the game, choose 28 gauge Kanthal. Nickel wire should only be used by experienced rebuilders with strong knowledge of Ohm's law. You can use other gauges of Kanthal once you've gotten coil building down pat.

2. Wicking material. You are spoiled for choice here, but the most common choice is cotton, be it in sheets or balls. Silica wicks are also available and can be used if you're not confident working with cotton.

3. Small pair of pliers or tinsnips. You will need these to cut your lengths of resistance wire and trim the legs of your coils, so they need to be small. You can also use nail clippers if you so desire.

4. Tweezers. These are used for squeezing your coils, and should be ceramic-tipped if possible. For more information on this please see our blog post on building your first coil.

5. Scissors. These are used for cutting and trimming your lengths of wicking material.

6. Ohms meter/resistance tester. This is a small outboard unit used to check the resistance of your coils prior to installing onto your mod. If you are using a regulated mod it is optional but still recommended.

7. Coil jig. This is used for wrapping your coils, although you can use a drill bit, small screwdriver or large gauge syringe needle if necessary.

Your new rebuildable should include a small screwdriver or Allen key for the posts, and if you're lucky some spare screws and o-rings.

The right knowledge

You will need to learn a few new skills:

1. Coil building. As mentioned above we have a blog post about this, but you can learn off YouTube or a generous vaping friend or relative.

2. Wicking. If using cotton, you will need to learn how to create wicks of the right thickness. Again we have a blog post about this. (How good are we?)

3. Ohm's law and handling electricity. It will now be up to you to determine the right power levels for the right resistance. A regulated mod makes this easier, but it is vital that you understand the principals to ensure you don't blow up your mod and for your own personal safety. And yes, you guessed it, we have a blog post about this.

Are rebuildables right for me?

As with everything in the vaping world, whether or not you use a rebuildable is entirely a matter of personal preference.

You should seriously consider switching to rebuildables if:

• Your current setup isn't satisfying you
• The only way to ward off your cravings is through chain-vaping
• You want better flavour
• You want to blow massive clouds
• You are tired of fighting peer-pressure from your more experienced vaping friends and want to feel the sweet relief of giving in

Rebuildables may not be right for you if:

• Your cig-a-like or Ego is all you need to quit smoking
• You're not good at doing small fiddly things with your hands
• You prefer the convenience of tanks and pre-made coil assemblies
• You have no desire to sub-ohm or cloud chase
• You're not interested in larger sized setups or being teased by your co-workers about sucking on something that looks like a dictaphone

To sum it all up though, I think I speak on behalf of all rebuilders when I say:

Give it a go!

I have never once regretted the switch. Rebuilding my own atomizers is a much-loved hobby and I have learned a lot from doing it. Plus (nerd alert) it makes me feel more "connected" and "invested" in my vaping journey. Plus, now I'm hooked on RDAs, nothing else quite stacks up.

If you're toying with the idea but are still not 100% convinced, I highly recommend buying a simple two-post RDA (and a regulated mod if you don't already have one) and giving it a go. You may just find the vaping experience you've been looking for!

If you’ve been vaping for a while, you may have heard the term “dry burning” being thrown around here and there. You may be wondering what dry burning is and whether or not you need to do it.

Dry burning is basically firing your atomizer coil with no wick or liquid in order to burn off any residue that may have accumulated through use, thereby cleaning the coil and improving the flavour of the vape.

What you need to know about dry burning

Dry burning is for rebuildables

If you use pre-made coil assemblies, dry burning is generally not recommended (although there may be a few exceptions to this). The idea behind pre-made coil assemblies is ease of use, convenience and disposability. Once the coil has gunked up, you throw it out and insert a new one. You can dry burn a pre-made coil but you probably won’t like the results!

Dry burning is no substitute for a fresh coil

At best, dry burning may give you a day or two of extra use, unless you get into the habit of doing it every day, in which case it does significantly increase its lifespan. If you're like me and prefer the "set and forget" method of using your coils, the metal of the coil itself will eventually degrade with use. Therefore dry burning won't give you much benefit when your coil is getting long in the tooth.

Dry burning can be dangerous

There is the real risk of spitting hot fluid and even fire when dry burning, therefore you should follow all precautions and do it sensibly and responsibly.

How to dry burn your coils

Clear your space

As said previously, dry burning may involve combustion products. Therefore make sure you’re in a ventilated space away from any easily combustible materials. Yes of course you’re a tough guy (or gal), but make sure you don’t breathe the vapour in and be careful you don’t burn your hands or fingers. 

Remove your wick

Unless you’re using silica wick or SS mesh, the first thing you need to do is remove the old wick and throw it out. Even with silica, I would still recommend removing it. Dry burning with a cotton or rayon wick still inserted will burn it and can cause damage to your deck.

Check for residue prior to burning

Make sure you have no hanger-onners still attached, otherwise these will burn to the coil and be very difficult to remove, kind of rendering the whole exercise pointless.

Fire your mod

Just like when burning in a new coil, press the fire button and hold it down until there is no vapour coming off the coil and the coil glows red hot. Remember, when you start this, a lot of crap will come spitting off, so be careful!

Check again for any stubborn residue

Make sure there are no sneaky bits of gunk or fluff hanging on for dear life (as you may notice in the above photo). If you can’t see any but want to make absolutely certain, you can rinse the coil or even soak it in isopropyl alcohol overnight, but then again why not just build a new one? Each to their own.

Fire your mod (again)

Once you’re sure the coil is residue free, fire again to ensure the coil heats up from the inner wraps outwards and that there is no flame, smoke or vapour. 

And there you go – you’ve just dry-burned and cleaned your coil and are ready to re-wick!

Remember – don’t dry-burn your little Ego atty, best results are achieved if done daily, and make sure you take due care when dry-burning. Have fun!