No doubt by now you've learned more about electricity from vaping than you ever did in high school!

Especially if you bought a mechanical mod, you would have very quickly learned about voltage, amperes, resistance in ohms, and how important it is to your personal safety to get it right. But even if you always used regulated mods or fixed voltage/wattage devices, you would have picked up on resistance in ohms - the lower the resistance, the hotter the vape and therefore the more the vapour, and you probably figured out the weird thing that the lower the resistance, the higher the power needs to be.

But honestly - how does this stuff actually work? Exactly what have I got myself into here? Also, I really want a mech mod, but I've got no idea how to build it right, so where do I even start?

Even though both my dad and stepdad were electrical engineers, I was still somewhat ignorant of the whole caper until vaping introduced me to these finer aspects. Now it has finally twigged (somewhat), I would like to explain how it works in layman's terms, to give you a leg-up in your own understanding. So let's get into it!

Electricity

Starting with the easiest, everyone knows what electricity is, right?

Actually, everyone probably knows what it looks like, what it does, and how to use it, but maybe isn't so up on what it actually is, so let's start with this.

What we call "electricity" is the flow of electrons from one place to another. Electrons are negatively charged particles that orbit the nuclei of atoms (nerd alert).

When you fire your mod, it completes a circuit that allows electrons to flow from the battery to your coil.

Amperes (Amps)

Amps are a unit of measurement to describe the flow rate of electrons through any given point at one time. Increase the current flowing through the circuit and the amps increase, and vice versa.

This is not to be confused with milliAmpere hours (mAh), which is a unit of electric charge. One ampere hour is the equivalent of the charge transferred at a constant one ampere for one hour. Therefore, a 4400mAh battery has enough charge to run at one amp for 4.4 hours.

Volts (V)

Voltage is a concept that is actually poorly understood. We know the good old 9V battery, and we know about adjusting the voltage of our mods, but what is a volt?

A volt is a measure of potential energy between two points. In other words, it is a measure of how much electricity could be transferred between two different points when a current is applied.

For example, when using a mechanical mod, a freshly charged battery is capable of delivering 4.2 volts, meaning that when you complete the circuit between the positive and negative terminals, there is 4.2 volts worth of potential energy. As the battery's charge is used up, the voltage drops, because the potential energy released decreases due to the decrease in stored electricity.

In a regulated mod, the circuitry has the ability to drag electricity out of the battery at a constant rate - it acts as a throttle. So if you set your mod to pump 3.9V into your coil, it is draining less than the potential energy of the battery to begin with, and more than the potential as the charge decreases.

Watts (W)

Watts are a measure of power. The watt is a unit to describe the rate at which energy (measurable work ability) is produced. Therefore setting your variable wattage mod to a specific wattage is setting it to produce a certain amount of energy at a certain rate.

In regulated mods, watts and volts are related in terms of the end result, but are two separate means. When adjusting wattage, a regulated mod will adjust the voltage to the level required to produce the desired amount of energy. Adjusting the voltage directly will necessarily change the wattage; the higher the voltage, the higher the energy output, which is measured in watts.

Ohms (Ω)

The ohm is a unit of electrical resistance. In other words, it measures how much a conductive medium resists the flow of electrons. The higher the resistance of a conductive medium (such as the coil in your atomizer) the more it will resist the flow of electrons through it.

The resistance of a conductive medium (or impedance) can be determined by the formula Ω=V/A. Therefore, if applying 1.0V through a wire results in 1.0A of electricity, the resistance of the wire is 1.0Ω. You can also flip this around to determine how many amps are flowing by the formula A=V/Ω. Therefore, 4.2V flowing through a 1.2Ω coil is drawing 3.5A of current.

In an atomizer coil, electricity that is not allowed through is converted into heat. Therefore, the higher the resistance, the less electricity is needed to heat up the coil. The lower the resistance, the more power is needed.

Ohm's Law

The Ohm's Law Triangle was hinted at above - resistance, amperage and voltage can all be derived from each other:

Ω=V/A

or

A=V/Ω

or

V=AxΩ.

In a simple electrical circuit such as an atomizer coil, the impedance is directly affected by the volume of the resistive material. In other words, the more metal there is, the less resistance there is. This is why putting two 1.0Ω coils into an atomizer will result in an overall resistance of 0.5Ω, and why 24 gauge wire has less resistance than 28 gauge wire.

Putting it all together

The higher the resistance (Ω), the less power (W) is needed to produce heat from the same amount of current (A) drawn from the potential (V) of the battery.

However, increasing the resistance does not mean bigger clouds! This is due to the proportional relationship between the amount of energy flowing through the conductor and the amount of heat able to be generated - if hardly any energy is flowing through the wire, hardly any heat can be produced; however if lots of energy is flowing through the wire, the volume of energy converted to heat will be higher. Which means in order to produce more heat (and bigger clouds) you have to lower the resistance and increase the power exponentially.

This is why sub-ohming was born. By lowering the resistance of the wire, you are increasing its capacity to transfer energy, and increasing the energy that is then transferred into heat.

This is also why you need more power (W) to fire a coil at lower resistances (Ω). Putting a small current through a low resistance wire will mean the majority of the energy is dissipated into the negative pole of the atomizer, meaning no heat. In order to fire sub-ohm coils, you need lots of energy to get heat from the available voltage, but the heat you get is directly proportional to the amount of energy flowing through.

Mod safety

Regulated mods take the hard work out of the equation, but you still need knowledge of the above concepts to ensure you are using your mod battery efficiently. Not getting the resistance right can have dire consequences for your equipment - too much power through too much resistance will cause the current to bounce back along whatever path it can find, meaning not just through the negative pole of your atomizer, but possibly into the circuitry, back into the battery, or worst-case scenario into the body of the mod and/or your hand!

I highly recommend using the Watts/Volts/Amps/Ohms online calculator if you're building for a mechanical mod, or if you're just curious about why your battery always seems to be running flat.

So stay safe out there and have fun playing with power!

If you started vaping within the last year or so, you most likely know about mechanical mods, but aren't really sure what they're all about. Why do people use them? Why do some vapers say you're not "legit" unless you own a mech mod? Do I need one? Are they better?

First let's look at what they are and where they came from.

A brief history of the e-cig

The first e-cigarette was created in China by Hon Lik, a pharmacist who was also a smoker. After his father died of lung cancer, he decided to create a better way to get his nic fix. The company he worked for developed it and changed their name to Ruyan.

These were the "cig-a-likes". They looked like a cigarette, worked like a cigarette, tasted like a..... they looked and worked like a cigarette, and they soon caught on in a big way in Europe.

Not long after came the "eGo" style battery and clearomizer that we all most likely started on.

But, being the inventive types we all are, some e-cig users started experimenting with different ways to get more power to the coil, which creates more vapour and harder throat hit. They began repurposing various items - most commonly flashlights - to attach atomizers to them and use them as personal vapourizers. And so, the ubiquitous MOD was born!

Enter the MOD

The term "Mod" is shorthand for "modified", meaning a "mod" can be any electronic device appropriated for the purposes of vaping.

So what makes a mod a "mechanical" mod?

It's quite simple - a mechanical mod is an e-cig with no circuitry.

Really. That's it. You have the battery, the atomizer, and a switch that manually connects the battery to the atomizer. Simple as that.

But why mechanical mods?

In the days prior to high-wattage regulated mods, mech mods were the only way to sub-ohm. Your average eGo will only deal with resistances well over 1 Ohm, and this is not enough for die-hard cloud chasers. The only way to fire your perfect 0.25 Ohm build was to stick it on a mech mod. But of course you couldn't just simply attach it and vape on. You had to build the coil to a target resistance, meaning you had to Ohms-test. If you got it wrong - well, just say the phrase "catastrophic battery vent" in front of a mech mod owner if you want to watch them break out in a cold sweat.

Nowadays, however, you can stick your perfect 0.25 Ohm build on a wide range of high-wattage, regulated box mods and get the same results. They have built-in Ohms testing, and if the resistance is a bit off, you just adjust the wattage (or voltage, if you insist) to match your resistance. Life for sub-ohming cloud chasers has never been easier.

So.... why do people still love mech mods?

1. Aesthetics

By and large, mech mods are just plain purdy! From the sleek dragonesque ones in the above photo, all the way to the bold as brass Atmomixani fare, there is no denying their aesthetic appeal. There's just something about those big pretty pieces of metal that's hard to look away from.

2. Durability

Because there are no delicate bits and pieces of circuitry, they are tough as hell. They can take a pounding and still go right on firing away. The best quality ones are often milled straight out of a big lump of steel, and as a result will probably outlive all of us. Unlike regulated mods, which once the circuits are fried are reasonably attractive yet unnecessarily expensive paperweights, mech mods just keep on keeping on.

3. Collectibility

Being as they are artefacts from a more wistful age, they can have a lot of sentimental value, and look just as good on your shelf as they did in your hand. They also have the hobbyist appeal - sure it's more convenient to use your 150W box mod throughout the day, but for those of us who already love building our own coils, nothing beats spending a nice relaxing evening in the man (or lady) cave fiddling around with them to get the resistance just right.

In a nutshell

Back in the day, mechanical mods were the only way you could achieve higher wattages by building sub-ohm coils. These days, you can sub-ohm without them. They are not inherently "better" or "worse" than regulated mods, just a different way of doing the same thing.

If you want one just coz, there are still plenty being made, and some vapers swear by them. Just do yourself a favour and don't blow up your batteries!

Now that you've entered the wild and wonderful world of rebuildable atomizers and mastered the art of wrapping micro coils, you will need to select a wicking material.

If you started on the Egos like - well, pretty much everybody, you would be familiar with silica wicks. Silica is a great all-purpose wicking material that is hardy, doesn't burn easily and lasts a long time. You can definitely use silica in your rebuildable, however if you're after better flavour and vapour production (a big reason most vapers start building their own coils), you will eventually want to consider alternatives to silica.

There are actually a lot of options. Apart from silica and cotton, you can use Rayon, a type of synthetic cotton material; you can use stainless steel mesh (most commonly used in Genesis-style atomisers and certain kinds of RDAs); or you can even use ceramic wicks, although again apart from the Gennys they are not so common these days.

If you settle on cotton for your wick material, there are further options again within this group. We've already mentioned Rayon, which some users prefer for its superior wicking properties and the fact it imparts no flavour to the vape. You can use organic cotton balls, or even the el-cheapo supermarket cotton balls you steal from the bathroom cupboard - although, quality will vary widely depending on your choice, and this will impact the flavour of the vape.

Most experienced rebuilders (including myself) will tell you that organic cotton sheets are the way to go, for a few reasons:

• Quality - your local friendly - and reputable - vape supplier will generally go through the hassle of sourcing and experimenting with different suppliers, ensuring the sheets you buy are top quality;
• Ease of use - once you've had enough of picking bits of fluff out of cotton balls and somehow rolling them into wicks you will appreciate how simple wicking with sheets is;
• Consistency - no more lumpy bits or thin bits in your wicks, leading to burns, snags and dry hits;
• Flavour - believe it or not, most vapers who use organic cotton (again, including myself) actually like the flavour it imparts to the vape. There ain't nothin' like that freshly-wicked cotton taste! Mmmmmm

In addition to the reasons outlined above, if you are new to rebuilding, using organic cotton sheets is a great way to get the hang of wicking, with the added bonus of never needing to use anything else if you don't want to.

SO, now we've got that out of the way, how do we actually do this? I'm glad you asked!

To keep it simple for this tutorial, I have put a single micro coil on my trusty old Kayfun clone so you can get a good look at what's going on. Also in the name of simplicity, we will not discuss model-specific wicking techniques here. If you would like advice specific to your atomizer, please contact us and it should appear in a future blog post. Now, let's get down to brass tacks!

You will need: Packet of organic cotton sheets, scissors.

1. Grab your packet of cotton sheets, and extract a single sheet. Be careful not to pull the individual sheets apart or you will have an unusable mess on your hands. You can tell where one starts and the other ends by looking at the raised lines on the edge.
     
2. Grab your scissors and cut a strip off the edge of the sheet, going with the grain. For most coils you will need no more than 5mm.
   
3. Gently twist one end to a point. You do not need to twist the whole strip.
   
4. Carefully insert the twisted end into your coil, and slowly pull the strip through.
   
   NOTE: check the width here. If it's too thick, don't force it! Trim it down and start again. If it's too thin, throw it out and cut a new one.
   Why? If your wick is too thick, juice will not get to the coil and the wick will burn. If it's too thin, you can get flooding and gurgling, and the coil will get too hot. Don't be afraid to ditch a dodgy strip!
5. Once inserted into the coil, gently pull back and forth inside the coil. This does two things: 1. ensures you have the thickness right - it should move easily within the coil whilst still touching the whole inside of it; and 2. conditions the cotton inside the coil so it will be better at delivering juice.
           
6. Finally, trim the ends to the needed length. The ends should end up looking like they do in the photo. If they are still a bit twisted or compacted, very carefully pull the cotton apart. For RDAs, make sure you have enough length for the juice well. For RTAs, make sure you don't have so much length you're blocking the air channels.
     

That's it! Told you it was simple. This is your foundation wicking technique that will see you through your organic cotton sheet days. Any further variations you may come across all start with this.

If you would like a more specific wicking tutorial regarding your atomizer, please contact us and write "Blog post request" in the subject line.

Next week we will build on what we've learned in the last two posts and talk about how to use doublers.

So you've finally taken the plunge into the world of rebuildables! Your shiny new RDA has arrived in the mail, you’ve opened up the box, dismantled the atomizer, looked at the empty posts and said “OK, now what?”

The first thing you need to learn is how to build a coil. This tutorial will show you how to build micro-coils, which is the only coil you will need until you're ready to try some of the more “out-there” coil configurations.

It’s called a micro-coil because it’s small, and the wraps of the coil all touch each other. Nothing scarier than that :-)

Setting up

Before we dive in, here are the tools you will need for the job:

1. Kanthal resistance wire
2. Small pliers
3. Small tin snips or nail clippers
4. Drill bit, small screwdriver or coiling wand
5. Tweezers
6. (optional) butane torch

• You will need to select a gauge of Kanthal – the best one to start with is 28AWG. This gives you a good all-purpose gauge that will be suitable for most, if not all of your initial builds.
• If using drill bits, either 1/8 or 1/16 is a good size, but this is purely personal preference – you will get to know the size you prefer.
• Ceramic tipped tweezers are the best but you can make do with the ones you steal from the bathroom cupboard - same as the nail clippers :-P
• Using a butane torch is optional; you can still wrap a perfectly fine coil without one.
• And as always, safety first. You will be dealing with red-hot metal and noxious fumes, so make sure the space is well ventilated, and try not to burn yourself! It hurts.

Wrapping up

For the purposes of this tutorial, here are my tools: 30W regulated box mod, Magma RDA, 28AWG Kanthal, small pliers, metal tweezers, nail clippers, 1/16 drill bit and a butane torch.

Unspool about 20cm of your Kanthal. You want plenty to work with until you get a feel for the ideal length, so don't hold back. Snip it off with your pliers or nail clippers.

(optional) Hold the Kanthal with your pliers and take to it with your butane torch. Run slowly along the length of the wire until every part of it has glowed. This burns off the grease and muck from the factory and takes away the “springiness” of the wire, making it easier to work with.

Hold the drill bit in your hand and hold one end of the wire against the flutes for grip. Take note of how much length I leave on the flute side.

With the other hand, wrap the wire once around the shank. This is our starter wrap, so don't worry if it looks ugly.
Now, slowly continue wrapping the wire around the shank. Take your time to ensure each wrap touches the last as much as possible. Keep going until you've done ten full wraps.

Now, carefully unwrap your starter wrap and straighten out the wire.

Voila! Here is your coil. If it’s anything like my first one, it will not be as pretty as the one in this photo! But don't worry. It takes practice, and Kanthal is cheap!

Burning in

You can work with your first one, or practice a few times until you have something better. But the next step of the process is burning in the coil.

You can pre-burn with a butane torch, direct burn by installing in the RDA and dry-firing, or you can do both.

If using butane torch:

Carefully place the coil in the tip of your pliers and apply gentle pressure.

Give it a blast with the torch until it glows, maintaining the gentle pressure. Five seconds should do the trick.

If using direct burn by dry-firing:

Install the coil in your RDA.

Remove the excess wire by either snipping it with your tin snips or nail clippers, or by wiggling the wire until it breaks off.    
If using a mechanical mod, check the resistance using an ohms meter first. If you wrapped ten wraps, you should be reading around the 1 ohm mark. If the resistance of your coil does not match your setup, re-wrap the coil, using more or less wraps to change the resistance. This is important! The wrong resistance on a mech mod is a recipe for damage, so don't skip this step.

If using a regulated mod, you can adjust the power output to the correct level for your resistance, then fire it up! The coil will glow unevenly, and some smoke will probably appear. Keep firing until the smoke is gone.
         
Now this is the tricky bit: get your tweezers ready. Fire the coil until it’s red hot. Then, release the power button, and while the coil is still glowing, squeeze it with your tweezers so that the coil is nice and compact.
         
NOTE: please be careful! If you're not using ceramic tipped tweezers, you can short your system and/or give yourself a nasty little zap. Make sure the power button is released before touching your coil with metal tweezers.

After you've done the squeeze, fire it up again. Make sure the glow starts on the inside of the coil and moves outwards.
         
If it does – congratulations! Your coil is ready for wick installation!

In summary, this takes practice. There is no shortage of Kanthal in the world, so don't be afraid to chuck any messy ones in the bin and start again.

Next week we will take you to the next step – wicking with organic cotton sheets.